This is an
elaboration of this
Micechat forum post.
In a
previous
post, I lamented the thematic mess that is
present-day Tomorrowland (there's an ironic turn of phrase). Whatever
your opinion of the individual attractions therein, there's no
denying that it's a complete hodgepodge of concepts and design
elements.
But
the funny thing is, it's not the only area at Disneyland that has
this issue. Take a look:
It's
Fantasyland! What a charming little fairy tale village! But then...
Okay,
getting weirder...
Wait,
what?
How can all these vastly different design motifs be part of the same
land? Were the planners drunk or what?
And
how come we never notice
how badly things clash when we're actually there?
To answer these questions: 1. Because that's how it worked out, 2.
Probably not, 3. I'm getting to that.
Fantasyland
works despite its stylistic wonkiness because of its layout. The
spots depicted in the above three photos look bizarre next to each
other, but in the actual park they're not
next to each other; they're separated by distance and especially by
orientation—that is, you have to turn corners to get to them. This
brings into play the magic of sightlines.
Let's go on an imaginary trip through Fantasyland, starting at the
most common point of entry: Sleeping Beauty Castle. (For the purposes
of this exercise, we'll ignore Fantasy Faire and Pixie Hollow.) No
real castle ever looked like this, all pink and sparkly with pastel
blue turrets. It's a scrumptious confection right out of a
storybook...and sure enough, once we pass under the archway, we find
ourselves in a storybook village. The wings of the castle continue on
our left and right and merge with/nestle up against more quaint, Old
World-type structures. The ground is lined with cobblestones.
Straight ahead of us is an ornate carousel straight from a Victorian
fairground—of more recent vintage than a typical fairy tale, to be
sure, but trimmed with gilded Renaissance-style clown faces and
sheltered under a canopy reminiscent of a medieval tournament tent,
knightly shields and all. This is the Fantasyland courtyard, a
masterpiece of themed environment design. It's not totally
consistent, but the influences that went into the various attractions
exist on a continuum that helps them blend together into a unified
whole.
As we move past Pinocchio's Daring Journey, we see the storybook
theming wrap around the corner of the show building, ending with the
Village Haus restaurant. Across the walkway from the restaurant is
the now-defunct Skyway station, making for a nice little Alpine
sub-theme in this corner of Fantasyland. Remember that, because we'll
be coming back to it later.
More immediately, as we come around the King Arthur Carrousel, we are
suddenly confronted with the two Dumbo attractions. These are no part
of the fairy tale environment we have just left, but in conjunction
with the Carrousel, they make up a fairly cohesive circus/carnival
theme. The Carrousel successfully belongs to both and serves as a
pivot point between them, and its bulk prevents each set of
attractions from being easily seen from the vicinity of the other.
Continuing eastward, we encounter the gape-mouthed Monstro that
serves as the entrance to Storybook Land. This could be construed as
an extension of the carnival theme—a boat ride into a monster's
mouth has a lot to do with the old “Tunnel of Love” rides that
used cheap scares to send startled couples into each other's arms.
But that might be stretching things. Of more interest is the Alice in
Wonderland section across the way from Storybook Land, comprising the
dark ride, Mad Tea Party (itself a very carnivalesque ride), and Mad
Hatter shop. This is a great little self-contained “district” of
Fantasyland—the color palettes and distinctive floral motifs
(easily seen in the second photo above) have nothing to do with the
rest of the area, but they are consistent throughout this “miniland.”
Once you are in the Alice nook, abundant foliage helps to screen the
courtyard and carnival areas from your view.
If
Fantasyland stopped here, as it did back in the Fifties, we would
have just one more cool bit of theme melding to explore. Let's take a
look at it now anyway, as long as we're in the area. The Fantasyland
walkways join up with the parade route where it passes by the Alice
attractions. As we follow the parade route back toward the Hub, the
Alice show building is on our right. The exterior façade
of this building resembles a castle wall with a crenellated top and
turrets:
It's
supposed to be the Queen of Hearts's castle, but surely she would
have red spires, not
blue, right? Stylistically, it is almost identical to Sleeping Beauty
Castle, and you could easily be forgiven for thinking it was part of
the same structure. But it isn't:
That's Sleeping Beauty Castle in the lower right corner, of course.
It properly stops about where that round tree is (bottom center). The
Alice turrets, in the right third of the photo, are marked with pink
circles. All the masonry in that area is done in the style of
Sleeping Beauty Castle, and between that and the thick trees you'll
never spot where the join is.
(Slight aside: Actually, you can see in that bird's-eye view that the
entire eastern show building complex is adorned with crenellations.
The western complex is cropped out, but it has them too. Both sides
also have “dummy turrets” like the one near the center of the
photo. All this contributes to the impression that the courtyard is
completely enclosed within the walls of Sleeping Beauty Castle like a
medieval town. Awesome!)
So let's review: Castle leads to medieval fantasy village, including
a knightly carousel. The carousel crosses over with a more modern
carnival, which is linked to Wonderland by way of the Tea Cups.
Wonderland also includes a castle, and the circle is complete.
But don't get up just yet, because we're not finished! There's still
a lot more Fantasyland to examine!
While we were heading down the parade route, you may have found it
difficult to focus on the Alice show building because of the
eye-popping structure opposite: the majestic Matterhorn. (It's
impossible to talk about the Matterhorn in any detail without using
the word “majestic.” I dare you to try it. The power of
alliteration is just too strong.) The Matterhorn is definitely the
odd one out of the Fantasyland attractions—a thrill ride in a land
focused on children, a real-world mountain in a realm of fantasy.
It's even physically separated from the rest of Fantasyland by the
width of the parade route. As most fans know, when it first went up,
the Matterhorn was considered part of Tomorrowland. But ultimately it
was decided that a snow-capped European mountain fit the fantasy
theme a little better than the future theme, and to clinch the deal,
the ride was remodeled with fanciful ice caverns, glowing crystals,
and animatronic Yetis.
But
it still kind of sticks out, doesn't it? Literally—it's the tallest
thing in Disneyland, visible from almost anywhere else in the park.
It looms over the rest
of Fantasyland and doesn't quite seem to belong.
Or
does it? Remember several
paragraphs ago, when we were admiring the little Alpine
mini-environment over by Village Haus? You won't get the best view of
the Matterhorn from this area due to the intervening structures and
trees, but you can still glimpse it, and more importantly, there's a
geographic logic to the arrangement. The Matterhorn is the
easternmost portion of Fantasyland, while the Village Haus environs
(especially the adjacent bathrooms) are the westernmost portion, and
both are Alpine themed. Even their background music loops have a few
polkas in common. In this way, the slice of Fantasyland just beyond
the courtyard maintains a sense of continuity despite the mishmash of
themes that fill the sandwich.
This
does not seem to be an accident or coincidence. The Village Haus is a
companion restaurant to Pinocchio's Daring Journey and is filled with
murals and carvings of the characters from the film. On that basis
you would expect a name for the restaurant derived from Italian, but
instead they went with German, more characteristic of the Swiss
Alps. This suggests to me that the Imagineers in charge of the 1983
renovation of Fantasyland deliberately drew lines of kinship between
Village Haus and the Matterhorn, with the Skyway—which was after
all very similar to the suspended trams used in the actual Alps—as
the physical link.*
Still not convinced? Look at this:
This is a vintage photo (courtesy of Davelandweb) of the model of
Pinocchio's village in Storybook Land, with the Matterhorn rising up
behind it like the king of the range. The view isn't quite as sharp
today, as those trees behind the row of little peaks have grown in a
lot in the intervening decades, but it's still the case that
Disneyland's most famous Alp lines up beautifully with these less
prominent Alps. Even better, although we usually think of the
Matterhorn as a mountain in Switzerland, it's actually located right
on the Swiss-Italian border and could very well be visible from
Pinocchio's hometown.
But
wait! Wasn't Storybook Land, with all its intricate models, installed
before the Matterhorn
went up? Yes, yes it was. And wasn't the Matterhorn placed where it
was because there was already a hill there made from the dirt scooped
out of the castle moat? Indeed. So this view of the two attractions
is actually serendipitous, not deliberate?
Yeah. So? Sometimes things work out that way. It's awesome. Not to
mention, the designers of Village Haus could very well have been
inspired by the above view, factoring it into their decision to
redesign the western corner of Fantasyland the way they did. In any
case, these instances of Alpine theming sprinkled about the land help
reinforce the notion of an isolated village somewhere in Old Europe.
Whew! Moving on...
The
last stop on our tour is a personal favorite of mine: “it's a small
world.” Whatever else you might say about this ride, there's no
denying that its exterior façade
has the most outlandish design of anything in Fantasyland. In fact,
there's nothing like it anywhere else in Disneyland...or much of
anywhere at all, really. The work of the always weird-minded Rolly
Crump, it came about in the mid-1960s, when I guess two-toned
tessellations of geometric shapes were the hip thing. But there's
more of the odd than the mod about Small World, especially that clock
face, whose friendliness barely edges out its freakiness.
(Ooh, maybe I spoke too soon. Don't eat me, Mr. Clock Tower!)
I
won't understate the case—I love this façade.
I love the whole ride, but I have a special affection for its
exterior design. It's quirky to the point of nigh
incomprehensibility—how would you ever guess, just looking at it,
that the ride was about international harmony? Maybe if you happened
to notice the handful of stylized monuments along the top edge, or
approached it at the right time to watch the quarter-hourly doll
parade. But it's nowhere near as indicative of the ride's content as
the Jungle Cruise's intricate boathouse covered in naturalists'
drawings and butterfly collections, or Big Thunder Mountain's layered
orange buttes and mining equipment.
And
it doesn't harmonize with the overall theme of its land in the way
that the façades
of Pirates of the Caribbean or Star Tours do. There's a reason I put
it last in the series of three photos at the top of the post—it's
just weird. It doesn't
match any of the other Fantasyland themes even a little bit.
The
reason it doesn't stick out like a sore thumb is, again, sightlines.
“it's a small world” is located at the end of a long, broad
walkway called, appropriately enough, the Small World Promenade. It's
so big because it's part of the parade route, but it also affords a
terrific view of that façade
as we approach it. What's more, the other fixtures along this stretch
of walkway—snack and souvenir stands, towers for lighting
equipment, even trash cans—partake of similar design elements, but
perhaps less extreme. Then too, the facade itself spreads out
extremely wide, and its height roughly follows a shallow bell curve,
tapering off toward the ends. (It was more symmetrical before the
left side had to be truncated to make room for the tunnel into
Mickey's Toontown.) By the time we get close enough to look old
Chester** in his staring golden eyes, we've been prepared for his
appearance.
Moreover, if we then turn around and look back the way we came, we
don't see much of the rest of Fantasyland. There's the Matterhorn, of
course, but the promenade is off to the side of the area, and those
same lighting towers that gradually introduced us to the aesthetics
of “it's a small world” help screen Storybook Land and the Alice
attractions from view. Not only is it a small world, apparently it's
a world unto itself.
The
takeaway message here should be that, for all we blather on about
theme and placemaking and the important of cohesive design, it's not
absolutely necessary.
The most important thing is that things look
right, and it doesn't really matter whether that is achieved via
strict adherence to an overarching theme, or squirrelly tricks with
layout and visual obstacles. Walking through Fantasyland is like
proceeding through an anthology of whimsical short stories. Each time
you turn the page to a new chapter, your surroundings change...but
it's all right, because you can only read one story at a time, so
they're not competing for your attention.
Fantasyland isn't necessarily the only part of Disneyland where this
approach works, just the most dramatic case. The next time you're
wandering the park—or any Disney park—take a look around and see
how the magic of sightlines works to ease transitions between themes
and give guests more variety for the square footage than they would
otherwise experience.
*
Since 1994, a missing
link.
**
Cast Members working the attraction inform me that this is the clock
tower's name.
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